A Wander Through a Field of Lavender Inspires Lemony Shrimp and Garlic on Lavender Stems

Monarch Butterfly in the Garden for the Butterfly Effect

Here in the Okanagan Valley we have several lavender farms including a beautiful farm property with sweeping views of Okanagan Lake right here in K-town. Eighteen years ago Okanagan Lavender Herb Farm was the inspiration of the McFadden family to reinvent their heritage property into an agritourism business which today features over 60 varieties of fragrant lavender. 

On Sunday evening we wandered through the farm as they hosted a day of art, butterflies and delicious food and local wine in support of the Central Okanagan Hospice Association. We wandered through row upon row of gentle waves of icy blue, mauve, and deep violet lavender that billowed all around us. The air was vibrating with the hum of bumblebees clinging to the bobbling purple spikes. There was the heady fragrance of thousands of stunning blooms at the peak of their perfection to greet us along the winding pathways as we were enticed by creative dishes by local chef Mark Filatow of Waterfront Wines.

We had a great opportunity to not only check out some amazing “fresh” art but to also help raise funds for the Central Okanagan Hospice Association at Art in the Garden. It reminded me of the late 70's and wandering in southern France among endless fields of gently waving flowers. I pondered this while tasting a refreshing lavender-infused Italian soda carrying a protective vibrant hot pink umbrella and wandering the themed herbal gardens and admiring the array of whimsical vine sculptures, created by local artists dotted throughout the landscape. Is there anything more sensuous than a field of lavender in bloom? Mid July is the peak moment for lavender here in the valley. I was lucky enough to spend some time with fellow food blogger and kindred spirit Dina of Olive Oil and Lemons chatting with locals and visitors alike enjoying the afternoon and celebrating this visually spectacular time. 

An “organic” gathering of artists at the Okanagan Lavender Farm featured the works of some of the valley’s favourite artists, showcasing pieces that incorporate pieces of the farm. For example, Julia Trops had carved a peacock and created its tail out of lavender; Annabel Stanley had created a Cinderella dress using grapevines and lavender; Alex Fong had one of his paintings framed in a barn window; and other artists were busy creating sculptures out of natural materials as well. All of these were available in a silent auction at the end of the evening.

At 12:45 The Butterfly Effect took place where they released orange hued monarch butterflies in memory of loved ones which raised funds over the past few months. Imagine thousands of delicate wings skimming over the lavender fields in the blazing afternoon sun with strains of harp music in the background. We found a bit of shade and savoured our Italian sodas and local wines from Quail's Gate Winery and drank in the atmosphere.

Every artist needs a muse. For the many artistically gifted chefs that have settled in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia it is the quality of the area’s produce that is the muse that has drawn them to this spectacular setting with its grand lakes and sweeping mountains. That quality produce comes from food and wine producers who work with the land to bring forward the very best of its terroir; its taste of place. We were treated to many innovative dishes such as lamb sliders, falafels with roasted tomato chutney, apricots wrapped in prosciutto, salmon and chicken skewers and an array of salads and dips from local celebrity chef Mark Filatow and his team.

It was an enjoyable way to support a local cause. The Central Okanagan Hospice Association, where I volunteered for many years, is committed to community outreach and to meeting the needs of the terminally ill and their families by providing compassionate care and supportive assistance through resources, trained volunteers, and professional counselling.

I have always been passionate about lavender and grew several varieties in "my garden days." It is time to be reminded and explore the culinary side of this versatile herb disguised as a flower. North Americans have not taken to cooking with lavender, but the French, especially in Provence where there are vast fields, use it in the kitchen often. Lavender is sometimes mixed into Herbes de Provence, a blend of thyme, basil, rosemary, lavender and marjoram that is traditionally used to season beef, lamb and pork stews, soups, and as a rub for grilled fish. Locals make lavender infused liqueurs and although I suspect that French lavender farmers must occasionally grill a whole lamb over dried stems, or infuse a creme anglaise with a few stray flowers, written recipes are hard to come by.

Lavender is an incredibly versatile herb for cooking enhancing both the flavour and appearance of food. As an herb, lavender has been in documented use for over 2,500 years. As a member of the same family as many of our most popular herbs, it is not surprising that lavender is edible and that its use in food preparation is also returning. Flowers and leaves can be used fresh, and both buds and stems can be used dried. Lavender is a member of the mint family and is close to rosemary, sage, and thyme. It has a sweet flavour, with lemon, citrus and sometimes peppery notes. Andrea says, "Most people are surprised that lavender does not actually have a floral or soapy taste (which is what they expect)." It is the type of herb where your guests will ask "What's in this dish?" while enjoying every bite.

It always surprises me to learn the number of varieties that exist from a species of plant, and lavender offers an assortment of over 400 varieties. All lavender plants look and smell wonderfully but not all are meant for use in the kitchen. Andrea of the Okanagan Lavender Farm says, "Any lavender from the species Lavandula angustifolia (the lavenders that are the first to bloom here), also sometimes called 'sweet lavenders can be used in cooking. Most of the lavenders you would not cook with are not winter hardy. If the plant has an unusual leaf (serrated or fern shaped) or an unusual flower (with 'wings' coming out of the top) it is generally not a culinary lavender. These are often called 'savoury lavenders'. If they have a lot of camphor in them as some do, do not use them...you can usually guess by their aroma. All flowers are not edible and some are extremely toxic. 

Imagine the sweet, buttery flavour of a shortbread cookie as it melts away in your mouth. Now, add to that the floral, fresh, spicy tang of lavender (think of a mild hybrid of sage and rosemary, with a subtle citrusy presence), blowing onto your palate like a spring breeze in Provence. It's a dazzling mix, and it's surprisingly easy to achieve at home.

Lavender lends itself to savoury dishes, from hearty stews to wine-reduced sauces. Release the flavour by using an herb mill or mortar and pestle to break up dry lavender to release its aroma before using in as an ingredient in a recipe.  In The Lavender Garden, Robert Kourik suggests that lavender foliage can be substituted for rosemary in almost any dish. Both are members of the enormous mint family, and both have a powerfully aromatic flavor with resinous undertones. His recipes include one for lamb chops cooked over lavender sprigs and garlic and another for boneless chicken breasts laid on top of fresh lavender stalks and cooked on a cast iron griddle over an open fire. 

And then there are desserts. The flowers can be put in sugar and sealed tightly for a couple of weeks then the sugar can be substituted for ordinary sugar for a cake, buns or custards. Used in moderation, lavender blends well with lemon and other citrus flavors, making a lovely summery ice cream, and adds a floral aroma to baked goods such as shortbread and pound cake. Diminutive blooms add a mysterious scent to custards, flans or sorbets. Imagine white chocolate lavender cheesecake or lavender lemonade. Culinary Lavender is also used to make simple syrups which can be used on fruit or desserts as a light and refreshing addition. Andrea was in the process of making a second batch during my visit. Keep the lavender stems after removing the dried flower buds and use as a fragrant kabob stick, just slide fresh fruit on the stems. Flowers look beautiful and taste good too in a glass of champagne so let's celebrate the season with style!!!!

Are you drooling yet?  

Lavender has become a popular ingredient for cooking for both sweet and savoury dishes but a little goes a long way. Keep in mind that too much lavender, as with other herbs, can overpower a recipe. Use it sparingly. Start out using small amounts and experiment a bit until you find what amount works best for your taste and in a particular recipe. Meantime, consider it as a complimentary background flavour, similar to the use of vanilla. Andrea says, "Use pure lavender essential oil (we use Lavandula angustifolia, 'Maillette'). Because it is a concentrated essence of the plant you need so little - it adds surprising flavour, but not texture and none of the work of infusions which need to be strained." 

Wherever your culinary experiments take you, the real secret is to use lavender with the greatest restraint, particularly if you are substituting the dried flowers for fresh blooms: A good rule of thumb is to use half as much dried lavender as you would fresh. And if you buy lavender, be sure that it is culinary, unsprayed quality.

The fresher the flower, the more flavourful its taste, so pick your flowers as close as possible to food preparation time. Stem flowers may be put in a glass of water in a cool place until you are ready to use them. All blooms should be thoroughly rinsed. Immerse them in water to remove any insects or soil. Then lay the flowers gently on paper or cloth towels and dab dry, or gently spin dry in a salad spinner. If necessary, layer blooms carefully between moist paper towels in the refrigerator until meal time. 

One of the pleasures of having lavender in the summer garden is thinking up new ways to use it. Fresh lavender flowers are used to impart their unique flavour.  Our next technique uses the stems of the lavender. The sturdy, square stems of Lavender “Grosso,” for instance, make perfect skewers for an entree of grilled shrimp. These shrimp skewers get their hint of lavender flavour from the skewers themselves. 

Marinated in lemon juice, olive oil and garlic and briefly charred on your barbecue grill, the shrimp come to the table tasting of smoke, the salty tang of the ocean, with a mysterious hint of lavender. You could also substitute boneless chicken thighs or chunks of lamb for the shrimp. Andrea at the lavender farm also suggested a kebab of potatoes, tomatoes and peppers. Why not skewer your fruit and barbecue it too? All will have a slight citrusy, peppery tone from the lavender.

**Lemony Shrimp and Garlic on Lavender Stems** 

1 pound large shrimp in their shells
Juice of 1 or 2 lemons
Olive oil
2 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 sturdy stems of fresh or dried lavender, about 10 inches long (see note)

Devein the shrimp by cutting down the backs of their shells with a sharp paring knife. Rinse and pat dry. Do not remove the shells or the legs. 

 In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. Add the shrimp, mix well and set aside to marinate. 

Soak the fresh or dried lavender stems in water for 5 minutes. Remove and pat dry.(not always necessary depending on the thickness of your stalks)

Thread the shrimp onto the lavender skewers and place them on your barbecue grill. Cover and cook for 2 minutes, turn and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more, or until the shrimp are opaque and the shells are just slightly charred. 

Serve each person a skewer of shrimp, along with 2 or 3 more shrimp that have been removed from the remaining lavender stems.  

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